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Cryptocoryne sp. KAI LNG7

March 7th, 2010

Back in October of 09,  a friend of mine, Kai Terukuni, went collecting in Lingga island in Indonesia. Among some of the crypts he found and collected was one he labelled Cryptocoryne sp. Desa Musai Timur, Pulau LINGGA[LNG-7].

A few pictures of the habitat by Kai.
Additionally, here’s a link to some video of the habitat.

A fairly shaded shallow stream with a sandy bottom.

cryptocoryne_lng7_a

cryptocoryne_lng7_c

cryptocoryne_lng7_b

I was lucky to  receive a specimen from this locality in November.
cryptocoryne_lng7_0

This plant flowered around the end of December 09 and then again in early January.

cryptocoryne_lng7_1

cryptocoryne_lng7_2

cryptocoryne_lng7_3

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cryptocoryne_lng7_5

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cryptocoryne_lng7_7

Cryptocoryne scurrilis? I’ll send the pictures to Jan to be identified.


Ghazanfar Ghori Spathes

New kid on the block

March 5th, 2010

I spent a couple of hours this week catching up on the recent discussions on the Home Tissue Culture Yahoo Group. The Yahoo group, albeit hard to navigate through, is chock full of really good information and was started by Carol Stiff who’s known for the Kitchen Tissue Culture website. As you peruse through the posting, you cannot help but notice a LOT of discussion on sterilization methods and chemicals used, and why shouldn’t you? Sterilization, is after all, the most important step in micro-propagation.

Recently, a hobbyist, Gregorio J. Placeres, came up with a new sterilization process. Made from household chemicals, AAHPPAA for short (fer real?!), is a ‘new’ oxidizer which is proving to be an effective and more efficient alternative to using bleach in the sterilization process.

To make it the instructions are as follows:

In a two cup Measuring cup, place 100 ml of White Vinegar (5% acetic acid).
Place the cup in the microwave for 1 min.
Add 400 ml of Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)
Transfer the solution to a Dark Bottle and place in the fridge for one hour.
After that you can use this desinfect the surface of your explant.

Since this is still pretty new, experimentation is currently underway with determining the exact protocol. However, generally,  this liquid will sterilize your explant in a mere 2.5 minutes. Additionally, unlike the traditional bleach method, no rinse off is needed on tough plants. Tender plants might need a quick rinse.

If this works, this would be a real time saver! Cheap and easy to make too!

I’m going to try it out this weekend. Stay tuned!

Ghazanfar Ghori Tissue Culture

A peek at Claus Kettner’s setup

March 3rd, 2010

Recently, I was copied on an email from Claus Kettner in which he describes adding a water pump to his crypt setup.

Google translates the email as follows:

Dear Friends,

We are all constantly on the lookout for new techniques useful in the keeping, care and propagation of our water plants.
We are careful to admit in our plants Standwasser enough, but not too much fertilizer on. I have resolved to fertilize my plants so to about 400 uS. With the
Rainwater that I use, already contributes about 20 uS. In addition, my water is kept constantly by a small pump to move (from the belief that moving water is better than standing and also) the risk of algae (Kamhaut the water is prevented). The
Beaker culture creates in an occasional change of water also help. For these reasons, I have little in all my pools circulators.
I now noticed after a few months ago that in the basin with the most water spray (leaves) always dampened the growth of plants is stronger than in the rest of the basin. The growth (size) of C.pygmea foremost plant, is second from right, much stronger than before this change. Certainly the repot showed while its effects.
With a few plants, the rest C.alba everything that I have received from Niels, Alfred and Peter.

It gives me a major concern of the stock of C.alba keep us stable in the culture.

Best regards

Claus

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I did have pumps in my setup for water movement, but I removed them since they kept getting clogged. Kettner appears to have circumvented this issue by having a pre filter. Maybe its time to add them back in.

Additionally, he mentions that he fertilizes his plants with 400 uS of fertilizer. While here in the US, we normally measure fertilizer by tsp/gallon, in Europe, most crypt growers use a more scientific approach to concentration. From all appearances, it looked like MiracleGro (the blue is tell-tale) that everyone used. Mix enough in some RO/Rainwater to give you EC of 400 uS and you’re set. I also believe Kai Witte mentioned that most people do complete water changes on their crypt setups to ensure that adequate fertilizer levels are maintained.

Kettner’s setup looks so clean compared to mine! I need to clean up my setup.

Ghazanfar Ghori Regular Update

Lagenandra meeboldii – video

February 28th, 2010

I’m starting to play around with YouTube videos on my blog. Here’s the first one showing me taking a clump of Lagenandra meeboldii out of culture before transfering it into my aquarium.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6tG8vmnTZg

Ghazanfar Ghori Tissue Culture

Cryptocoryne tissue culture / micropropagation Part 1

February 26th, 2010

Due to popular demand, I’ve written up a series of articles on Micropropagation of Cryptocoryne.
This is the first of a series of articles to come.

Introduction

Micropropagation is a technique used to propagate plants using small fragments of the growing tip, stem, leaves, flowers and sometimes even just individual cells of a parent plant. It is often used to rapidly propagate plants for commercial use, especially in the case of plants that do not reproduce rapidly by regular means. Walk into a Garden Center today, and chances are, the plants you see there for sale were likely produced via this technique.
Anubias

Micropropagation is also used for conservation of rare plant species and that’s specifically why I got interested in it.

Micropropagation differs from other propagation techniques in that it requires the plants be grown in aseptic conditions. There are for major stages of Micropropagation:

  • Initiation
  • Multiplication
  • Rooting
  • Acclimatization

Initiation
The first stage of Micropopagation, is also, in my opinion, the most difficult. This is where a segment of the plant, you’re trying to propagate is cut from the plant. This peice is referred to as the explant. Even though you cannot see this, the explant is covered in bacteria and fungus/mold spores. It is then a tricky game of trying to disinfect the plant to kill off all the surface contaminants without killing the plant itself. Once decontaminated, the segment is placed in a sterile nutrient media under sterile conditions.

Multiplication
The explant is placed in media that contains certain hormones, called cytokinins. These hormones exist naturally in the plant, usually the highest concentration of which is at the growing tip. Cytokinins stimulate cell division, shoot initiation/bud formation and growth of lateral buds. By adding Cytokinins to the media in certain quantities, we can promote the rapid generation of shoots from plant cells. The goal of this stage is to maximize shoot production. After a certain interval, the shoots are seperated and placed into their own containers to multiply further. One shoot turns into 5, which after the are divided, turn into 25, then 125, then 625, 2135, 15625, 78125, 390625, 1953125 – almost 2 million plants.
Multiplication

Often multiplication factors are increased in lab conditions due to less contamination issues and ideal conditions. Its often normal to have a 7-9 fold increase in plant mass every 6 weeks in the lab. At home, I’ve found my numbers very close to this as well.

Rooting
Once enough material has been produced, plants can be induced into producing roots by placing them in a different media. This time, hormones called Auxins are used. For some plants, this step can be skipped and the plants can be placed in hormone-free media, which is usually enough to get the plant to start producing roots.

Acclimatization
At this stage, shoots are removed from the sterile environment and placed in soil in a high humidity environment. Humidity is the gradually reduced to harden off the plant. Usually plants still have some residual hormones in them often exhibit strong lush growth.

Acclimation

Ghazanfar Ghori Tissue Culture

Lagenandra meeboldii via micropropagation

February 25th, 2010

I’ve gotten enough L. meeboldi going invitro to start taking some out. This is right out of Stage 2. The plants had already started to develop small roots since the jar was over 8 weeks old, so instead of dividing it further, these two jars were ‘harvested’.

Pics w/ camera phone. :) Sorry.
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This is approx 25+ individual plants / crowns in the clumps shown above! I have 40 more jars of meeboldii like this.

Ghazanfar Ghori Tissue Culture

Seeds please

February 15th, 2010

I know a number of crypt enthusiasts follow this blog, so I figured it’d be easiest to post my request right here. If you go out and visit wild populations of crypts and come across seed pods that are mature, I would really appreciate it if you could collect them for me. It’s legal to mail small lots of seeds to the US without going through a phytosanitary process. I do have an import permit that allows me to receive that material.

My success with C. nurii micropropagation with explants established from seeds has been very successful. Getting seeds might be the easiest way to obtain some new cryptocoryne and propagate them out to share with other hobbyists.

I really would appreciate it if you could collect seeds and send them to me.

Thank you

Ghazanfar Ghori Regular Update

Dividing Lagenandra thwaitesii

December 17th, 2009

Lagenandra have three general growth patterns when it comes to vegetative propagation:
1) They produce runners with daughter plants on the ends. L. narii is an example of that.

2) They have a thick rhizome that creeps at ground level, with daughter plants growing off the rhizome. L. meeboldi, L. thwaitesii are examples of this growth pattern.

3) Daughter plants grow as a cluster around the mother plant on short rhizome extensions, like L. bogneri.

My Lagenandra thwaitesii plant has gotten rather large, and it’s time to divide it up.
lagenandra_thwaitesii_div1

You can clearly see the horizontal rhizome, and off the rhizome, several areas where daughter plants are coming off of.
lagenandra_thwaitesii_div2

Using a sharp razor blade, sections of the rhizome were cut to divide the plant into 4 separate sections. You can see, each section has significant root mass to ensure that it will grow just fine by itself after division. its important that you use a clean blade that’s sharp. Irregular cuts have a higher chance of getting infected with bacteria that may induce rot.
lagenandra_thwaitesii_div3

Once the cuts have been made, the root mass can be reduced to 2″ lengths to allow for easier planting. It also promoted new root growth which will help the plant get established quickly.
lagenandra_thwaitesii_div4

Plants can take several weeks to get established. If the plant has significant sized leaves, you can remove the older ones, leaving only 2-3 of the newest leaves on the plant. This makes the plant easier to keep upright in the pot and reduces transpiration while the roots get established.

Ghazanfar Ghori Culture Info